Archer Asks: Designer Clarence Chai

Clarence Chai is a gay Singapore-born Australian fashion designer and classic clothing supplier. Prominent in Melbourne and Sydney inside 1970’s and ‘80’s, he had been the only Chinese fashion designer in Melbourne for a time. The his clothes are housed within the nationwide Gallery of Victoria together with Powerhouse Museum Sydney. Their style tag has been showcased in several journals, most notably

Vogue Australia.

Let me know about one thing fabulous you created for yourself.

A team of us were attending the Arts baseball in Melbourne very early 70s. We wore a mini dress made of metal curtain bands protected with fuse wire. Gold sequins had been put in proper places. It actually was in the exact middle of winter plus it was freezing. I’d to warm-up the ensemble to my electric blanket to put it on. Next some one was required to do me upwards behind with fuse cable. Every person just who arrived as well near to me personally or try to provide me a hello hug happened to be snagged by finishes for the fuse cable. Overnight, I realized my hands had been high in minor incisions through the fuse line.

In a 1978 meeting, you asserted that the clothing you style are ‘non-sexist. They could be donned by female or male, they will have a flexibility we could all make use of.’ Just what compelled one to go after this gender-fluid visual inside fashion styles?

I have for ages been into androgyny. David Bowie ended up being my determination. I like just how David Bowie cultivated his picture. I became an enormous follower particularly during his Ziggy Stardust duration when his outfits happened to be designed by Kansai Yamamoto. I shaved my personal eyebrows, had a Bowie haircut and would paint my temple red-colored or hot red whenever browsing functions. This was in the period when Boy George of Culture Club was producing surf. Several other gay singers then followed: Elton John, Marc Almond from smooth Cell, Freddie Mercury from Queen and Pete Burns from inactive or Alive. Maybe it absolutely was during this time period that we developed gender material aesthete within my designs.

Have you got any leading three favorite garments you developed? Could you let me know about them?

My personal manner career spanned 36 many years, generally there happened to be countless garments developed. Mostly, my favourites were the special one-off products. This package was actually included in

Female’s Time.

The leading was actually quick. It is the straight back that will switch heads. The tiles happened to be slashed from a sheet and tiny holes were drilled in order that it could possibly be linked together with silver rings. It took in regards to 400 website links plus the rear screen was then made to your gown anchored with small black beans. I made the earrings, also.

Another favourite garment of my own was created in 1980 or ‘81. Ebony jersey with rainbow rouleaus. The design is actually a transgender friends and many in my situation.

Just what happened to be your customers like?

My personal clients had been pretty different. It started with hairdressers, people in the film and TV market. Then health practitioners and architects. The normal client happened to be feamales in their unique thirties or older, generating an effective earnings. Some bought for operating, while some would splash aside for special occasions.

Whom or what had been the layout influences?

Whenever I began, we utilized my Asian back ground as inspirations like Japanese kimonos and Chinese Cheongsams. My favorite developers at that moment were Kenzo, Thierry Mugler and Claude Montana. After That, Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto, Junko Watanabe.

Appearing straight back at the own experiences, exactly what information do you really give to young adults who want to operate in fashion – as manufacturers, as store proprietors, as enablers, etc.?

My personal advice to young people getting started is carry out a company course whether for trend designing or planning to possess a merchandising shop. Secondly, I would advise employed by a designer basic or perhaps in manner shopping to know the functions from business aspect. Up to three years’ knowledge before striking out yourself. When I began I happened to be thus green and had to learn on the way. Most creative individuals have no idea of business and that I was not an exception. Have passion, drive and perception in your work, or a clear vision of what you would like. It is best that you specialise because’s a jungle nowadays.

There will probably continually be new makers coming on the scene. Its more difficult today since we have a great deal cheap, throwaway garments obtainable as well as on the world wide web. Forget producing road clothes – its as well aggressive. Carry out small choices and special one-offs. Then develop the company. I happened to be blessed I’d hairdressers, stylists and makeup music artists exactly who put myself on the map. A lot of them struggled to obtain fashion periodicals, and suggested my personal clothes on the editors. Once publications like

Vogue Australian Continent

settled attention, my styles shot to popularity as well as other magazines began to get curious. All promotion is useful.

Mcdougal thanks a lot Australian Continent style historian Tom McEvoy for ideas and introductions that made this post possible.

For more information about Clarence Chai, queer design and Australian fashion scene of this 1970’s and ‘80’s, consult


Dr Sally Gray’s

Pals, Fashion and Fabulousness: the creating of an Australian Continent Style

(Australian Scholarly Publishing, 2017).

Angela Serrano is a Melbourne copywriter and fine-art design. She ended up being a 2017 Wheeler Centre Hot table Fellow. Pronouns: She/her/they/them. Twitter:
@angelita_serra
Instagram: @angelita.biscotti